A Field Guide

Five Days on Oʻahu

One island, five days, a clockwise loop from Waikīkī to the North Shore and back. This is the plan.

5Days
130Miles
18Stops
1Island

The Route

Start in Waikīkī. Head east past Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay, up the windward coast through Kailua, across to the North Shore, then loop back through the center. Five days, one rental car, no backtracking.

Day 1 & 5 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 - - - Driving route
Day 01 Diamond Head & Waikīkī Sunrise crater hike, beach day, Kalākaua stroll
Day 02 Pearl Harbor & Honolulu Arizona Memorial, Chinatown, ʻIolani Palace
Day 03 Hanauma Bay & Southeast Snorkeling, Halona Blowhole, Makapuʻu Lighthouse
Day 04 Kailua & Windward Coast Lanikai pillbox dawn, kayak Mokulua, Kailua town
Day 05 North Shore & Pipeline Banzai Pipeline, Haleʻiwa shrimp, Dole Plantation
Book early. Pearl Harbor / USS Arizona Memorial tickets on recreation.gov sell out weeks in advance. Free, but timed entry only. Set your dates, then book immediately.

Day One

Diamond Head & Waikīkī

Sunrise crater hike, longboard lessons, and the Kalākaua strip at dusk

Drive8 mi loop
VibeIconic first day
ReserveDiamond Head ($5)
Diamond Head crater at sunrise with hikers on the trail

Fig. 1 — Diamond Head at dawn. The 0.8-mile trail gains 560 feet to the summit lookout.

05:30

Diamond Head Summit Trail Hike

The 0.8-mile trail to the 760-ft summit takes about 45 minutes. Headlamp for the tunnels. Reservations required ($5/person).

Parking opens at 6 AM. Bring water — no fountains after the trailhead. The sunrise view stretches from Koko Head to the Waiʻanae Range.

07:30

Bogart's Café Eat

Açaí bowls and egg scrambles on Monserrat Ave, five minutes from the crater. Cash-friendly.

09:00

Waikīkī Beach Classic

Set up near the Duke Kahanamoku statue. Rent a longboard for a beginner-friendly break at Canoes or Queens.

Board rentals ~$20/hr along Kalākaua Ave. The water is calm and warm year-round.

12:00

Marukame Udon Eat

Fresh-pulled udon, counter service, fast line. Get the beef udon with a tempura add-on.

15:00

Kalākaua Avenue & International Market Place Classic

Stroll, shop, shave ice. The banyan tree courtyard at the Market Place is worth a stop.

18:30

Sunset at Kuhio Beach Classic

Torch-lighting ceremony and hula show most evenings at the beach wall. Free.

Backup Plan

If Diamond Head is sold out, hike Koko Head Stairs (1,048 railroad ties, no reservation needed, brutal but rewarding).

Day Two

Pearl Harbor & Honolulu

Arizona Memorial at dawn, ʻIolani Palace, Chinatown poke, and a harbour sunset

Drive22 mi
VibeHistory & culture
ReserveUSS Arizona (free)
USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor with calm harbor waters

Fig. 2 — The USS Arizona Memorial spans the sunken battleship. Free timed tickets via recreation.gov.

07:00

Pearl Harbor National Memorial Reserve

Arrive early. The 75-minute program includes a documentary and boat ride to the memorial. Free, but timed tickets required — book at recreation.gov.

No bags larger than a small clutch allowed. Lockers available ($5). Allow 2–3 hours for the full site including the Bowfin Submarine Museum.

10:30

USS Battleship Missouri Classic

Walk the surrender deck where WWII ended. Guided tours available. Separate admission (~$35).

12:30

Helena's Hawaiian Food Eat

Legendary hole-in-the-wall in Kalihi. Pipikaula short ribs, squid lūʻau, poi. James Beard Award winner. Cash only.

14:00

ʻIolani Palace Classic

The only royal palace on American soil. Guided or self-guided audio tours (~$25). King Kalākaua built it in 1882 — it had electricity before the White House.

Docent-led tours run every 15 minutes. The basement gallery is included.

15:30

Chinatown & Arts District Classic

Walk Maunakea St for lei stands, Oʻahu Market for fresh poke, and the galleries on Bethel St. End at Manifest for craft cocktails.

18:00

Nico's Pier 38 Eat

Dockside restaurant at the fish auction wharf. Fresh catch plate lunch, harbor sunset views.

Backup Plan

If Helena's is closed (they close on some weekdays), try Highway Inn Kakaʻako for similar Hawaiian plate lunches.

Day Three

Hanauma Bay & the Southeast Coast

Reef snorkeling, the Halona Blowhole, and a coastal trail to the lighthouse

Drive38 mi loop
VibeSnorkeling & coastal
ReserveHanauma Bay ($25)
Hanauma Bay's turquoise waters and coral reef seen from above

Fig. 3 — Hanauma Bay, a marine life conservation district. Online reservations required; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

06:45

Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve Reserve

One of the best snorkeling spots in Hawaiʻi. Mandatory 9-minute conservation video before entry. Gear rental available onsite (~$20).

Arrive by 7 AM. Parking fills by 9. Online reservation required ($25 non-resident). Closed Mon–Tue. The inner reef is calm and full of parrotfish, tangs, and butterflyfish.

10:00

Halona Blowhole & Eternity Beach Classic

Pull over at the lookout — the blowhole erupts 30 ft on big south swells. The cove below (From Here to Eternity) is a scramble down but swimmable on calm days.

11:00

Makapuʻu Point Lighthouse Trail Hike

Paved 1.5-mile trail with whale-watching views (Nov–April). The lighthouse itself isn't accessible, but the lookout is the point.

No shade — bring hat, water, sunscreen. Spot for dolphins year-round. On clear days you can see Molokaʻi and Lānaʻi.

13:00

Koko Head Café Eat

Brunch spot in Hawaiʻi Kai. Cornflake French toast, kimchi fried rice. Expect a wait on weekends.

15:00

Sandy Beach Classic

Bodyboarding capital. Powerful shorebreak — watch the locals, don't underestimate the current. Great for spectating if you're not experienced.

17:00

Poke bowls or Alan Wong's Eat

Light poke bowl on the way back, or splurge on Hawaiʻi regional cuisine at Alan Wong's in Honolulu.

Backup Plan

If Hanauma is closed or sold out, snorkel at Shark's Cove on the North Shore (summer only, free, rockier entry).

Day Four

Kailua & the Windward Coast

Pillbox sunrise, a kayak crossing to the Mokulua Islands, and a Japanese temple at golden hour

Drive42 mi
VibeAdventure & beaches
ReserveMokulua kayak (~$75)
Sunrise view from the Lanikai Pillbox trail overlooking Mokulua Islands

Fig. 4 — The Lanikai Pillboxes at dawn. Two WWII bunkers sit above the ridge with views to the Mokulua Islands.

05:15

Lanikai Pillbox Hike (Kaʻiwa Ridge) Hike

Short (1.8 mi round-trip) but steep scramble. Two concrete WWII pillboxes frame one of Hawaiʻi's best sunrise views over the Mokulua Islands.

Unmarked trailhead on Kaʻelepulu Dr — look for parked cars. Headlamp recommended. The second pillbox is the photo spot.

07:30

Lanikai Beach Classic

Consistently ranked among the world's best beaches. Powder-fine sand, calm turquoise water, no facilities. Residential neighborhood — park legally and walk in via beach access paths.

09:30

Kayak to Mokulua Islands Book

Rent a tandem kayak from Kailua Beach Adventures (~$75/half-day). Paddle 1 mile to Moku Nui — land on the beach, explore the tide pools, snorkel the back side.

Launch from Kailua Beach. Morning is best (afternoon wind picks up). Moku Iki is a bird sanctuary — no landing allowed.

12:30

Buzz's Original Steakhouse Eat

Old-school Kailua landmark since 1962. Fish sandwiches, steak, strong drinks. Charming dive atmosphere.

14:00

Kailua Town Classic

Browse the boutiques on Kailua Rd. Island Snow for shave ice (Obama's favorite). Whole Foods for picnic supplies.

16:00

Byodo-In Temple at Valley of the Temples Classic

A non-denominational replica of the 900-year-old Byodo-In in Uji, Japan. Set against the fluted Koʻolau cliffs — stunningly photogenic. Ring the 3-ton peace bell.

Entry ~$5. Koi ponds and peacocks on the grounds. Best light in the late afternoon when the mountains go gold.

Backup Plan

If kayak conditions are rough (winter swells), SUP-board in the flat Kailua Bay instead, or hike Maunawili Falls (3 mi round-trip, muddy, bring water shoes).

Day Five

North Shore & the Drive Back

Pipeline's famous break, Haleʻiwa shrimp trucks, and pineapple fields on the road home

Drive56 mi loop
VibeSurf culture & farm country
ReserveNone
Pipeline surf break on Oʻahu's North Shore with turquoise barrel wave

Fig. 5 — Banzai Pipeline in winter. The world's most famous left-hand barrel breaks over a shallow reef at ʻEhukai Beach Park.

07:30

Banzai Pipeline / ʻEhukai Beach Park Classic

In winter (Nov–Feb), this is the most famous wave in the world. In summer, the water is flat and snorkel-friendly. Watch from the sand — the reef is dangerously shallow.

08:30

Sunset Beach Classic

Walk the 2-mile stretch. In winter, massive outside sets; in summer, a gentle swimming beach. Shark's Cove is nearby for summer snorkeling.

10:00

Ted's Bakery Eat

Chocolate-haupia cream pie is the signature. Plate lunches and garlic shrimp too. Expect a line.

11:00

Waimea Bay Classic

Jump off the famous 25-ft rock (summer only, when the bay is calm). In winter, 30-ft faces break in the bay — spectating only.

12:00

Haleʻiwa Town Eat

The surf town. Giovanni's shrimp truck (scampi, get the "No Refunds" hot version), Matsumoto's shave ice (est. 1951), and North Shore Soap Factory for gifts.

Walk the Haleʻiwa strip: art galleries, vintage surf shops, Rainbow Bridge over the Anahulu River.

14:00

Dole Plantation Classic

The world's largest maze (disclaimer: it's touristy, but the Dole Whip is worth the stop). Pineapple Express train ride for kids or completionists.

16:00

Drive back via H-2 / H-1

The interior route through pineapple fields. About 45 minutes back to Waikīkī without traffic. Time it before 3 PM or after 6 PM to avoid the commuter crush.

Backup Plan

If it's a big winter swell day, skip the swimming stops and instead chase the surf: Sunset Beach contest zone → Pipeline → Waimea → Haleʻiwa Aliʻi Beach for the best viewing. Bring binoculars.

Essentials

Booking Timeline

8 Weeks Out

Arizona Memorial

4 Weeks Out

Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay

2 Weeks Out

Kayak rental, restaurants

Day Before

Check surf report

Budget

CategoryDescriptionPer Person
FlightsSFO → HNL round-trip$250–400
HotelWaikīkī mid-range, 5 nights$800–1,200
Car RentalCompact, 5 days$200–350
ActivitiesAdmissions, gear, kayak$150–250
FoodMix of plate lunch & dinner$300–500
TotalPer person estimate$1,700–2,700

Packing Checklist

  • Reef-safe sunscreen — required by law
  • Rash guard / water shoes
  • Snorkel mask — or rent onsite
  • Headlamp — hikes start in the dark
  • Packable rain jacket
  • Reusable water bottle
  • Dry bag — for kayak day
  • Light hiking shoes
  • Hat + polarized sunglasses
  • Aloha shirt — blend in

Rules of the Water

Reef-safe only

Hawaiʻi bans oxybenzone and octinoxate. Check labels or buy locally.

When in doubt, don't go out

Shore-break can be lethal. If you see no one in the water, there's a reason.

Never turn your back on the ocean

Rogue sets sweep people off rocks every year. Stay aware.

Respect the lineup

If you surf, know the etiquette: don't drop in, don't snake, give locals priority.

Rules of the Road

No honking

Locals don't honk. It's considered aggressive. A shaka wave is the universal acknowledgment.

One road in, one road out

The North Shore has one highway. On weekends, expect traffic. Leave early or late.

Pull over for views

Don't stop on the highway shoulder for photos. There are designated lookout points.

Where to Eat

Day 1 · Waikīkī

Marukame Udon

Fresh-pulled udon, counter service. Get the beef udon with tempura.

$$

Day 2 · Kalihi

Helena's Hawaiian Food

Pipikaula short ribs, squid lūʻau, poi. James Beard winner. Cash only.

$$

Day 3 · Hawaiʻi Kai

Koko Head Café

Cornflake French toast, kimchi fried rice. Weekend brunch spot.

$$

Day 4 · Kailua

Buzz's Steakhouse

Old-school landmark since 1962. Fish sandwich, steak, strong drinks.

$$

Day 5 · Haleʻiwa

Giovanni's Shrimp Truck

Scampi, "No Refunds" spicy. The original garlic shrimp truck.

$

Day 5 · North Shore

Ted's Bakery

Chocolate-haupia cream pie. Plate lunches and garlic shrimp too.

$

The best days on Oʻahu are the ones you didn't plan — the detour to a hidden beach, the local who tells you where to eat, the sunset that makes you pull over. This guide gets you to the right places. The island does the rest.