A Field Guide
One island, five days, a clockwise loop from Waikīkī to the North Shore and back. This is the plan.
Start in Waikīkī. Head east past Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay, up the windward coast through Kailua, across to the North Shore, then loop back through the center. Five days, one rental car, no backtracking.
Day One
Sunrise crater hike, longboard lessons, and the Kalākaua strip at dusk
Fig. 1 — Diamond Head at dawn. The 0.8-mile trail gains 560 feet to the summit lookout.
The 0.8-mile trail to the 760-ft summit takes about 45 minutes. Headlamp for the tunnels. Reservations required ($5/person).
Parking opens at 6 AM. Bring water — no fountains after the trailhead. The sunrise view stretches from Koko Head to the Waiʻanae Range.
Açaí bowls and egg scrambles on Monserrat Ave, five minutes from the crater. Cash-friendly.
Set up near the Duke Kahanamoku statue. Rent a longboard for a beginner-friendly break at Canoes or Queens.
Board rentals ~$20/hr along Kalākaua Ave. The water is calm and warm year-round.
Fresh-pulled udon, counter service, fast line. Get the beef udon with a tempura add-on.
Stroll, shop, shave ice. The banyan tree courtyard at the Market Place is worth a stop.
Torch-lighting ceremony and hula show most evenings at the beach wall. Free.
If Diamond Head is sold out, hike Koko Head Stairs (1,048 railroad ties, no reservation needed, brutal but rewarding).
Day Two
Arizona Memorial at dawn, ʻIolani Palace, Chinatown poke, and a harbour sunset
Fig. 2 — The USS Arizona Memorial spans the sunken battleship. Free timed tickets via recreation.gov.
Arrive early. The 75-minute program includes a documentary and boat ride to the memorial. Free, but timed tickets required — book at recreation.gov.
No bags larger than a small clutch allowed. Lockers available ($5). Allow 2–3 hours for the full site including the Bowfin Submarine Museum.
Walk the surrender deck where WWII ended. Guided tours available. Separate admission (~$35).
Legendary hole-in-the-wall in Kalihi. Pipikaula short ribs, squid lūʻau, poi. James Beard Award winner. Cash only.
The only royal palace on American soil. Guided or self-guided audio tours (~$25). King Kalākaua built it in 1882 — it had electricity before the White House.
Docent-led tours run every 15 minutes. The basement gallery is included.
Walk Maunakea St for lei stands, Oʻahu Market for fresh poke, and the galleries on Bethel St. End at Manifest for craft cocktails.
Dockside restaurant at the fish auction wharf. Fresh catch plate lunch, harbor sunset views.
If Helena's is closed (they close on some weekdays), try Highway Inn Kakaʻako for similar Hawaiian plate lunches.
Day Three
Reef snorkeling, the Halona Blowhole, and a coastal trail to the lighthouse
Fig. 3 — Hanauma Bay, a marine life conservation district. Online reservations required; closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
One of the best snorkeling spots in Hawaiʻi. Mandatory 9-minute conservation video before entry. Gear rental available onsite (~$20).
Arrive by 7 AM. Parking fills by 9. Online reservation required ($25 non-resident). Closed Mon–Tue. The inner reef is calm and full of parrotfish, tangs, and butterflyfish.
Pull over at the lookout — the blowhole erupts 30 ft on big south swells. The cove below (From Here to Eternity) is a scramble down but swimmable on calm days.
Paved 1.5-mile trail with whale-watching views (Nov–April). The lighthouse itself isn't accessible, but the lookout is the point.
No shade — bring hat, water, sunscreen. Spot for dolphins year-round. On clear days you can see Molokaʻi and Lānaʻi.
Brunch spot in Hawaiʻi Kai. Cornflake French toast, kimchi fried rice. Expect a wait on weekends.
Bodyboarding capital. Powerful shorebreak — watch the locals, don't underestimate the current. Great for spectating if you're not experienced.
Light poke bowl on the way back, or splurge on Hawaiʻi regional cuisine at Alan Wong's in Honolulu.
If Hanauma is closed or sold out, snorkel at Shark's Cove on the North Shore (summer only, free, rockier entry).
Day Four
Pillbox sunrise, a kayak crossing to the Mokulua Islands, and a Japanese temple at golden hour
Fig. 4 — The Lanikai Pillboxes at dawn. Two WWII bunkers sit above the ridge with views to the Mokulua Islands.
Short (1.8 mi round-trip) but steep scramble. Two concrete WWII pillboxes frame one of Hawaiʻi's best sunrise views over the Mokulua Islands.
Unmarked trailhead on Kaʻelepulu Dr — look for parked cars. Headlamp recommended. The second pillbox is the photo spot.
Consistently ranked among the world's best beaches. Powder-fine sand, calm turquoise water, no facilities. Residential neighborhood — park legally and walk in via beach access paths.
Rent a tandem kayak from Kailua Beach Adventures (~$75/half-day). Paddle 1 mile to Moku Nui — land on the beach, explore the tide pools, snorkel the back side.
Launch from Kailua Beach. Morning is best (afternoon wind picks up). Moku Iki is a bird sanctuary — no landing allowed.
Old-school Kailua landmark since 1962. Fish sandwiches, steak, strong drinks. Charming dive atmosphere.
Browse the boutiques on Kailua Rd. Island Snow for shave ice (Obama's favorite). Whole Foods for picnic supplies.
A non-denominational replica of the 900-year-old Byodo-In in Uji, Japan. Set against the fluted Koʻolau cliffs — stunningly photogenic. Ring the 3-ton peace bell.
Entry ~$5. Koi ponds and peacocks on the grounds. Best light in the late afternoon when the mountains go gold.
If kayak conditions are rough (winter swells), SUP-board in the flat Kailua Bay instead, or hike Maunawili Falls (3 mi round-trip, muddy, bring water shoes).
Day Five
Pipeline's famous break, Haleʻiwa shrimp trucks, and pineapple fields on the road home
Fig. 5 — Banzai Pipeline in winter. The world's most famous left-hand barrel breaks over a shallow reef at ʻEhukai Beach Park.
In winter (Nov–Feb), this is the most famous wave in the world. In summer, the water is flat and snorkel-friendly. Watch from the sand — the reef is dangerously shallow.
Walk the 2-mile stretch. In winter, massive outside sets; in summer, a gentle swimming beach. Shark's Cove is nearby for summer snorkeling.
Chocolate-haupia cream pie is the signature. Plate lunches and garlic shrimp too. Expect a line.
Jump off the famous 25-ft rock (summer only, when the bay is calm). In winter, 30-ft faces break in the bay — spectating only.
The surf town. Giovanni's shrimp truck (scampi, get the "No Refunds" hot version), Matsumoto's shave ice (est. 1951), and North Shore Soap Factory for gifts.
Walk the Haleʻiwa strip: art galleries, vintage surf shops, Rainbow Bridge over the Anahulu River.
The world's largest maze (disclaimer: it's touristy, but the Dole Whip is worth the stop). Pineapple Express train ride for kids or completionists.
The interior route through pineapple fields. About 45 minutes back to Waikīkī without traffic. Time it before 3 PM or after 6 PM to avoid the commuter crush.
If it's a big winter swell day, skip the swimming stops and instead chase the surf: Sunset Beach contest zone → Pipeline → Waimea → Haleʻiwa Aliʻi Beach for the best viewing. Bring binoculars.
8 Weeks Out
Arizona Memorial
4 Weeks Out
Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay
2 Weeks Out
Kayak rental, restaurants
Day Before
Check surf report
| Category | Description | Per Person |
|---|---|---|
| Flights | SFO → HNL round-trip | $250–400 |
| Hotel | Waikīkī mid-range, 5 nights | $800–1,200 |
| Car Rental | Compact, 5 days | $200–350 |
| Activities | Admissions, gear, kayak | $150–250 |
| Food | Mix of plate lunch & dinner | $300–500 |
| Total | Per person estimate | $1,700–2,700 |
Hawaiʻi bans oxybenzone and octinoxate. Check labels or buy locally.
Shore-break can be lethal. If you see no one in the water, there's a reason.
Rogue sets sweep people off rocks every year. Stay aware.
If you surf, know the etiquette: don't drop in, don't snake, give locals priority.
Locals don't honk. It's considered aggressive. A shaka wave is the universal acknowledgment.
The North Shore has one highway. On weekends, expect traffic. Leave early or late.
Don't stop on the highway shoulder for photos. There are designated lookout points.
Day 1 · Waikīkī
Fresh-pulled udon, counter service. Get the beef udon with tempura.
$$
Day 2 · Kalihi
Pipikaula short ribs, squid lūʻau, poi. James Beard winner. Cash only.
$$
Day 3 · Hawaiʻi Kai
Cornflake French toast, kimchi fried rice. Weekend brunch spot.
$$
Day 4 · Kailua
Old-school landmark since 1962. Fish sandwich, steak, strong drinks.
$$
Day 5 · Haleʻiwa
Scampi, "No Refunds" spicy. The original garlic shrimp truck.
$
Day 5 · North Shore
Chocolate-haupia cream pie. Plate lunches and garlic shrimp too.
$
The best days on Oʻahu are the ones you didn't plan — the detour to a hidden beach, the local who tells you where to eat, the sunset that makes you pull over. This guide gets you to the right places. The island does the rest.